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HomeWatchesfive stealth watches from 2024 from Breitling, Swatch, Seiko and more

five stealth watches from 2024 from Breitling, Swatch, Seiko and more

From Bioceramics to a pocket wild map, black goes with everything, right? From sleek designs to stealthy models, the comeback of black this year highlights that black is black. And sometimes, that's exactly what's needed.

Blancpain ร— Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms

Without generating as much enthusiasm as the MoonSwatches (fortunately), the Bioceramic collaboration has taken a mechanical turn. Powered by the Swatch System 51 automatic caliber, Blancpain has launched a plastic bomb (sorry, Bioceramic). I've never really bought into the MoonSwatch trend, but this Scuba Fifty Fathoms is a watch I can see myself wearing, especially the Ocean of Storms version with its striped NATO. I've always admired the modern Fifty Fathoms despite being 45mm, but this version edged out this year's new 42mm models by being a reasonable and affordable size. Certainly, โ‚ฌ400 will allow you to buy a much better made mechanical watch, but that is not the question. Squinting, with its bulbous bezel, it looks and feels like a real lightweight diving grail.

Bamford Neprosolar

George Bamford loves vintage watches and once remixed Girard-Perregaux's Casquette, which looks like a spaceship. The ยฃ582 timepiece you see here is the enticing result of Bamford's resurrection of a small but plucky Swiss brand that developed some pretty special watches in the '70s. All black and unlike anything else on the planet, this piece of dark and brutal futurism immediately caught my eye. The activation button on the right activates the driver's viewing angle of the blue OLED display, while the solar panel on the top provides long-lasting power. With the Toledano & Chan B/1 recently released, I hope this marks a return of ultra-angular watches. The first batch is sold out, but if you inquire with Bamford London you might be in luck.

Breitling Avenger B01 Chrono 44 Red Arrows

Breitling continues its aerial orientation, and I have always had a weakness for squadron editions. This spring, the famous Red Arrows of the RAF received two new models also available to us ordinary civilians. I still primarily enjoy smaller watches, but there's something about the confidence boost of a 44mm tool that still appeals to me. The Avenger B01 Chrono 44 Red Arrows sports the classic Breitling riders on the bezel and a massive 44mm case with a respectable 15.2mm thickness. Made from matte black ceramic, itโ€™s a play of light for such an imposing watch. Plus, the bright blue dial and straps make it a tempting proposition, especially since it's backed by the solid B01 caliber. You can get one for โ‚ฌ7,950 at your Breitling AD.

Dior Chiffre Rouge

Dior isn't the first name that comes to mind when talking about stealth tool watches, but it's one of my goals. The black DLC does not necessarily have to evoke the Tool with a capital O or be ready for a 007 mission. This link could be established with the 38 mm Chiffre Rouge from Dior, at โ‚ฌ7,600. This dark menace would surely be perfect on the wrist of Mads Mikkelsen's Le Chiffre (get it?) if he returned to the Bond franchise. The black DLC-coated case balances an architectural pattern on the dial and bracelet, while a wider right flank lends an asymmetrical charm. The three bright red accents of the seconds hand, date window and crown ring make the design. Perhaps I'm biased by my love of large lugs, but the Grand Seiko look of the black case bodes very well for Dior watches in 2024.

Seiko Prospex Solar Speedtimer SSC923

There has never been a shortage of black cool from Seiko, and my all-time favorite is the GMT 5 Sports. But at the beginning of this year, the brand relaunched the Black Series of the Prospex line, and I must say that I was tempted. For me, a staple of this range was the Marinemaster SBDX033 from 2020, but this year's Speedtimer SSC923 solar has a lot going for it. With a hard-treated steel case and a comfortable size of 41.4 ร— 45.9 mm, the V192 Solar Chronograph offers great value. It comes on a sturdy 21mm nylon strap with a fold-over clasp, all for โ‚ฌ700. I'm not saying it's comparable to the Breitling. However, at a tenth of the price, with a turquoise-tinted dial and a precise, durable heart, it's a great sports watch with a stealthy twist.

Shinola's Wearable Stealth

Neither you nor I expected to see this, which makes my wild card all the more charming. Elijah McCoy, one of the world's first known African-American inventors, is honored as part of Shinola's Great Americans series and lives on through the quality phrase “the real McCoy.” It inspired the improbable combination of 19th century retro chic without a bracelet. Instead, you wear it with a chain. It is a pocket watch coated with black DLC from the American brand Shinola. Matte black serves as a backdrop for the luminescent โ€œOld Radiumโ€ numerals, with gold hands and a large crown creating a beautiful contrast, enhanced by touches of red. A Sellita caliber SW210-1 powers this 45mm pocket watch, which retails for $1,750 on the Shinola website.

Honorable mentions

This year we've seen some menacing pieces on the wrist, so I'm sure this list could grow. How about the new and very accessible Boldr Odyssey Black Dragonfish? And if we also include digital cool, G-Shock never disappoints. As I write this, I'm wearing my G GADA, but Jorg made me want the imposing asymmetrical Frogman MRG. Those deep red details and seriously sturdy 49.7mm case awakened something in me. If I had an unlimited budget for black chic, I'd probably take a look at the very tempting Zenith Skyline Tourbillon Ceramic that Lex introduced last February. Rose gold details on an all black dial with a tourbillon, it's a deadly combination.

So, Fratelli, are you up for black-box chic or still on the all-steel retro bandwagon? Let me know your deepest, darkest feelings in the comments below (and incognito if you're an 00 agent).

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