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Getting started with the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT

We were able to try out the new generation of the popular TAG Heuer dive watch, the Aquaracer. The 43mm model was reduced by 1mm, received a new caliber and dial, among other changes. Mike Stockton did a great job describing all the changes, but didn't have a chance to try out the new watches. I've since been able to do so, so let's explore how these changes impact the subjective experience of handling and wearing these TAG Heuer Aquaracer Date and GMT models.

A slightly reduced case

Let's start with the new dimensions. The case has been reduced by 1 mm in diameter and gained 0.5 mm in thickness. Naturally, such small changes don't make a huge difference. However, on the wrist, it is noticeable.

On my 17.5cm wrist, the 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer works best for me. The old 43mm version is a little too imposing on my forearm. The 1mm reduction of these new versions helps, but they are still relatively large for me. Still, the modest 48mm center distance means these watches fit well within the confines of my wrist, reducing this to a matter of taste.

My advice would be to try visiting a dealer to see which size best suits your preferences. It really is that simple sometimes. In some cases I can advocate for specific sizes as they best do justice to a design. In this case, TAG Heuer maintains the proportions and character quite well across the different sizes, so it comes down to a matter of taste. Keep in mind, however, that both of these models, with their new updates, are only available in 42mm.

A new textured dial

The most striking change is not the size of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer. The first thing you'll probably notice is the dial and its new texture. TAG Heuer applied a wave pattern, although it reminded me more of the sandy bottom of a shallow sea. Waves aren't the only texture, as these dials are also brushed with a sunburst pattern. The Date model is available with a black, blue or green dial. The GMT version is available in your choice of blue or green.

Although the dial looks quite nice in isolation, as it is beautifully done, I feel like it gets a little lost in the Aquaracer. The old teak dials fit in perfectly with the modern, angular design language. Sometimes the juxtaposition of organic and angular shapes can reinforce both. IMHO this is not the case here. This seems a bit incongruous to me.

I have the same feeling about the circular date magnifier located under the glass. For me, it clashes with the octagonal indexes. You could say that the entire bezel is a marriage of circular and octagonal shapes, which should give context to the magnifying glass. As much as I try to see it that way, it just seems inappropriate.

A well made watch

Of course, all of the above is subjective. If the size fits you and you like the dial, you may be wondering if this is a good watch to buy and own. In this case, I would definitely recommend the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT updates. Overall the feel is one of quality.

The bracelet includes a micro-adjustment system with sliding pushers on the outside of the clasp. As a result, it doesn't look overly refined, but the system works very well. It is simple and pleasant to use. It easily justifies the technical aspect, which is not out of place with the general atmosphere of the Aquaracer.

The finish of the entire watch is well executed. Beautifully brushed surfaces are separated by sharp chamfers. The screw-down crown is beautiful, sturdy and easy to handle. It connects to the caliber TH31-00 (Date) or TH31-03 (GMT). These are made by Sellita's AMT sweatshop. The caliber specifications are truly up to date for 2024, with an 80-hour power reserve and chronometer certification. There is nothing to complain about on this point, although some purists prefer a โ€œflyerโ€ GMT to the current โ€œcallerโ€ configuration.

Final thoughts on the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT

Overall, I think this is a solid update to the Aquaracer. I'm not a huge fan of the dial, but there's no denying that this is a well-made watch with modern specifications. TAG Heuer, however, enters a rather competitive playing field. The GMT goes up against the Longines Spirit Zulu Time, a โ€œflyerโ€ GMT which costs โ‚ฌ600 less on a bracelet (โ‚ฌ3,500 versus โ‚ฌ4,100). The diver's watch competes with the slightly more expensive Tudor Black Bay (โ‚ฌ3,750 versus โ‚ฌ4,180).

But this is all theoretical. The Aquaracer has a distinct and much more contemporary style than most dive watches in the segment. Perhaps the Oris Aquis Caliber 400 is a more direct competitor, but I wonder if these brands have much overlap in their customer base and target audience.

In any case, the new Aquaracer shows TAG Heuer's desire to keep its popular diver up to date. I often argue that the quality of a watch doesn't necessarily lie in its specifications, but it's always good to see brands improving them nonetheless.

What do you think of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT models? Let us know in the comments below.

Technical characteristics :

  • Brand: TAG Heuer
  • Models: Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT
  • Dial: Date: black, blue or sun green with wave pattern and applied luminescent indexes / GMT: blue or sun green with wave pattern and applied luminescent indexes
  • Case material: Stainless steel with ceramic insert on bezel
  • Case dimensions: Date: 42 mm (diameter) ร— 48 mm (center distance) ร— 12 mm (thickness) / GMT: 42 mm (diameter) ร— 48 mm (center distance) ร— 13.45 mm (thickness)
  • Glass: Flat sapphire with double anti-reflective treatment
  • Bottom: Screwed, stainless steel
  • Movement: Date: Caliber TH31-00, automatic with manual winding, frequency 28,800 vph, power reserve 80 hours, chronometer certified / GMT: Caliber TH31-03, automatic with manual winding, frequency 28,800 vph, reserve 80 hour walking time, chronometer certified
  • Waterproofing: 300 meters
  • Bracelet: Three-row stainless steel with folding clasp with double safety pushers and fine adjustment system or rubber with folding clasp with double safety pushers and fine adjustment system
  • Functions: Date: Time (hours, minutes, seconds), date, 60-minute diving bezel / GMT: Time (hours, minutes, seconds), date, GMT โ€œcallerโ€, 24-hour bidirectional bezel
  • Price: Date: โ‚ฌ3,550 (rubber bracelet) or โ‚ฌ3,750 (steel bracelet) / GMT: โ‚ฌ3,950 (rubber bracelet) or โ‚ฌ4,150 (steel bracelet)
  • Warranty: Five years
  • SRQ Backlot