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How this legendary watch became a cult object

Since its launch in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has embodied sporty elegance in luxury watchmaking. In recent years, it has seen a spectacular resurgence in interest among collectors and enthusiasts. Discover the fascinating history of this watchmaking icon and the reasons for its meteoric rise.

A revolution in the world of sports watches

The Royal Oak disrupted the codes of traditional watchmaking from the moment it appeared. Designed by the famous designer Gรฉrald Genta, it introduces the innovative concept of โ€œluxury sports watch with integrated braceletโ€.

Its octagonal steel case, exposed screws and integrated bracelet give it a resolutely avant-garde look for its time. This bold aesthetic contrasts radically with classic sports watches, which are generally round and discreet.

A provocative price that causes a sensation

When it was launched, the Royal Oak caused a sensation with its exorbitant price. At 3,300 Swiss francs, it is several times more expensive than a Rolex Submariner of the period.

Audemars Piguet fully assumes this positioning with provocative advertising campaigns. โ€œThe most expensive steel watch in the worldโ€ or โ€œIt takes more than money to wear a Royal Oakโ€: the brand plays the card of absolute exclusivity.

Constant evolution over the decades

Over the years, the Royal Oak has come in multiple versions while retaining its unique DNA:

  • In the 1980s, it featured a perpetual calendar, a technical feat for a sports watch.
  • In 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore was created with an imposing 42mm case, paving the way for XXL watches.
  • In 2002, the Royal Oak Concept pushed technological boundaries with avant-garde materials.
  • Growing enthusiasm among collectors

    In recent years, the Royal Oak has seen a spectacular resurgence of interest. Vintage models are selling for top prices on the secondary market:

  • A Royal Oak 5402ST from the 70s can reach 200,000 euros.
  • The original 1993 Royal Oak Offshore 25721ST fetches over 250,000 euros.
  • This surge in prices can be explained by the rarity of the old pieces and the mythical aura that now surrounds the collection.

    The Royal Oak in 2024: between tradition and innovation

    To celebrate the icon's 50th anniversary, Audemars Piguet is launching a new generation of Royal Oak in 2022. The reference 16202 replaces the legendary 15202, while retaining the original spirit:

  • Extra-flat 39mm โ€œJumboโ€ case
  • Blue dial with โ€œPetite Tapisserieโ€ pattern
  • New, more efficient 7121 automatic caliber
  • Offered at 33,200 euros in steel, this new Royal Oak remains true to its high-end positioning. The brand nevertheless promises to reserve a portion for new customers to meet growing demand.

    The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has stood the test of time, remaining faithful to its original spirit while constantly reinventing itself. Its timeless design and aura of exclusivity make it more than ever an object of desire for watch enthusiasts around the world.

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