From 5,000 to over 100,000 euros, these exceptional Grand Seiko models offer unique styles and fascinating stories to enrich your collection. Dive into the heart of these timepieces that are driving the market crazy.
Grand Seiko: Japanese excellence finally recognized
Since its separation from parent company Seiko seven years ago, Grand Seiko has established itself as a luxury watch brand in its own right. With hand-assembled watches often priced around โฌ10,000, the Japanese brand is now playing in the big leagues.
While contemporary models focus on dials inspired by nature, vintage Grand Seikos produced between 1960 and 1975 focused solely on precision. Their goal? To surpass Swiss chronometers. These mechanical pieces, often co-branded Seiko, met or even exceeded the standards of Swiss chronometers.
Long reserved for the Japanese market, these vintage Grand Seikos are now experiencing a resurgence of interest among collectors around the world. Here is our selection of the 7 most sought-after references, from the most affordable to the most legendary.
Grand Seiko 4420-8000: the accessible icon
First piece in our selection, the reference 4420-8000, better known as the 44GS. This watch is considered by the brand as the source of the โGrand Seiko Styleโ. Its 38 mm case, perfectly adapted to modern wrists, and its Zaratsu polished sides make it an essential piece.
Equipped with a low-frequency manual movement, it offers reliability and precision. Expect to pay around 5,000 euros for a copy in good condition and serviced by a specialist dealer.
Grand Seiko 6145-8000: gold in the spotlight
Our second selection gives pride of place to precious metal with an 18-carat gold case. This Grand Seiko 61GS houses a high-frequency automatic movement beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour. This high frequency gives it exceptional precision, comparable to the brand's current standards.
Despite its age, this watch is still capable of operating within a range of -3 to +5 seconds per day. Its gold case gives it an undeniable presence on the wrist. Expect to pay around 8,000 euros for a beautiful example that has retained its well-defined angles.
Grand Seiko Chronometer: the origins of the legend
Third piece in our selection, the very first Grand Seiko produced in 1960. Sometimes called โGrand Seiko Firstโ or simply โGrand Seiko Chronometerโ, this watch is distinguished by the absence of co-branding on the dial and its traditional dress watch style.
Most models had a steel case covered with a thin layer of gold (gold capped). Beware of the many variants and transitional models that make the hunt perilous. Favor trusted vintage dealers or auctions.
Expect to pay around โฌ10,000 for a sought-after version with a logo engraved on the dial in good condition. For the more fortunate, a few rare platinum versions were produced between 1961 and 1963, but they are extremely difficult to find.
Grand Seiko 618x-8000 VFA: the quest for excellence
VFA stands for โVery Fine Adjusted.โ Each Grand Seiko VFA model used the highest quality versions of the base movement, factory adjusted to an accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day, guaranteed for two years. To this day, this remains the highest precision ever achieved by Grand Seiko in mechanical watchmaking.
This 618x-8000 reference is the most โcommonโ of the VFAs, although still very rare compared to standard Grand Seiko models. At the height of the market, an excellent example sold at Phillips for โฌ50,000. Prices have eased slightly since then, with a watch in poorer condition fetching โฌ9,000 at a Hong Kong auction in 2024.
Expect to pay around 15,000 euros for a copy in good condition.
Grand Seiko 4580-7000 VFA: rare originality
Our fifth selection stands out for its atypical style. This watch abandons the usual Grand Seiko aesthetic codes in favor of a steel tonneau case with horizontal brushing and a flat polished bezel. This reference is extremely rare, with some sources mentioning less than 100 examples produced.
Copies appear on the market once or twice a year. Prices reflect the rarity of the watch, with a wide range due to the lack of recent sales data. Expect to pay at least โฌ40,000 for this model, if you can find one for sale.
Neufchatel Observatory Chronometer 4520-8020: certified excellence
In 1968, Seiko submitted 103 examples of the 4520 movement for certification to the Neuchรขtel Observatory. Seventy-three of these movements were certified and marketed in limited editions under the name Observatory Chronometer.
The cases were made of solid 18-karat gold, hammered over their entire surface in a so-called โFlorentineโ finish. The result is a highly decorative case, atypical for Grand Seikos of the 1970s.
Surprisingly, despite the 73 examples originally sold, these watches appear quite regularly at specialist retailers. Expect to pay around โฌ45,000 to add one to your collection.
The Imperial VFA: The Holy Grail of Collectors
Our final selection is the rarest vintage Grand Seiko of all. Dubbed the โImperial VFA,โ this watch was made exclusively for the Imperial House of Japan. The movement and case are based on the reference 4580-7010, but the dial is unique to the Imperial House. It features the Imperial chrysanthemum seal, whose 32 petals indicate that it is the seal of the Emperor himself.
Only three examples have ever been photographed. Two appeared in England and one in Germany. The theory is that Emperor Hirohito gave these watches as gifts during state visits in the 1970s.
Only three sales are documented, and the amounts paid have remained confidential. Our estimate is based solely on the current market value of the underlying reference, the 45GS VFA, and the added rarity and provenance of the Imperial House.
Who knows how much the next Imperial VFA will fetch if it were to be put up for auction? The wildest estimates suggest prices in excess of 100,000 euros.
These seven vintage Grand Seikos represent the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking from the second half of the 20th century. Each in its own way, they are a testament to the brandโs relentless pursuit of precision and excellence since its inception. Whether youโre a seasoned collector or an enlightened enthusiast, these rare and precious pieces are certainly worthy of your attention.
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