The fascinating world of Rolex watches holds many secrets. Tiny details, almost invisible to the naked eye, can make the difference between an ordinary piece and a collector's treasure. Discover the 11 features that increase the price of your Rolex and delve into the exciting world of luxury watchmaking.
The mystery of the “meters first” dials
Until 1969, Rolex indicated the water-resistance depth in meters before the feet on its dials. This seemingly insignificant detail can increase the value of a Submariner 5513 by 66%!
The reasons for this change remain unclear: – A desire to conquer the American market? – A simple aesthetic choice?
Whatever the explanation, collectors are snapping up these “meters first” models.
The “Bart Simpson” crown: an unexpected wink
In the mid-1960s, Rolex experimented with its famous logo. The result? A blurred crown on some Submariner 5513s, which looked suspiciously like the head of cartoon character Bart Simpson.
This fun detail can increase the price by 38% compared to a classic model. Proof that humor has its place even in the serious world of luxury watchmaking!
Square crown guards: the absolute rarity
In 1959, Rolex added crown guards to its Submariner 5512. The first models had a square shape, quickly abandoned for practical reasons.
With only an estimated 100 examples made, these watches have become real grails for collectors. If you find one with its original “red triangle” bezel, be prepared to pay double the price of a standard model!
Pointed Crown Guards: The Evolution of an Iconic Design
Between 1959 and 1963, Rolex opted for pointed crown guards on its Submariner 5512. This transitional form, dubbed “PCG” (Pointed Crown Guards) by collectors, preceded the rounded design we know today.
A Submariner 5512 PCG can be worth up to 102% more than a later matte dial model. An investment with some spice!
The “Flat 4” lens: when imperfection becomes precious
In 2003, Rolex launched the Submariner 16610LV nicknamed “Kermit” with its green bezel. The first examples featured a distinctively shaped “4” on the bezel, with a flat top and a trapezoidal interior.
This “imperfection” quickly corrected makes collectors happy today. A “Kermit Flat 4” can be worth between 30% and 100% more than a standard model. Proof that sometimes, it's the small defects that make the difference!
The “exclamation point” dial: a witness to history
In the early 1960s, a mysterious luminous point appeared under the 12 o'clock index on certain Rolex models. This “exclamation point” is said to be linked to the use of less radioactive luminescent materials.
A Submariner 5512 with this detail can be worth 90% more than a standard model. A real treasure for watch history enthusiasts!
The “underlined” dials: the mystery continues
Between 1962 and 1964, a thin horizontal line appeared under the model name on some Rolex dials. Although the brand has never confirmed its meaning, it is believed to indicate the use of tritium, which is less radioactive than radium.
A “highlighted” Submariner 5513 is a real gem, worth 92% more than a regular model. Enough to make you want to get out your magnifying glass!
Red text: a detail worth its weight in gold
The end of the 60s saw the appearance of the name “Submariner” in red on the dial of the ref. 1680. This simple change of color can increase the price by 61%!
Even rarer, the Sea-Dweller has had versions with one or two lines of red text. A “Double Red Sea-Dweller” can be worth 96% more than a later model. Proof that at Rolex, the devil is in the details!
Gold dials: the golden age of Rolex
Before the late 1960s, Rolex used a complex process to create black dials with gold elements. These “gilt” dials are highly sought after today for their timeless elegance.
A GMT-Master 1675 with a gold dial can be worth 42% more than a model with a matte dial. A real treasure for vintage lovers!
The “Explorer” dial: when Rolex plays the explorer
Some rare Submariners feature the same dial as the Explorer I, with its distinctive Arabic numerals. These models are extremely sought after.
A Submariner 5513 with an Explorer dial can fetch stratospheric prices, up to 148% more than a standard model. A real treasure hunt for collectors!
“Maxi” dials: when size matters
In the mid-1970s, Rolex enlarged the luminous indexes of certain models to improve readability. These “Maxi” dials are now highly prized by collectors.
A well-patinated Submariner 5513 with a Maxi dial can be worth 11% more than a later model. Proof that sometimes, bigger is more!
The world of vintage Rolexes is a veritable playground for watch enthusiasts. These 11 details show how each watch has its own story and secrets. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a simple amateur, keep your eyes open: the next Rolex treasure may be hiding in a drawer or on a stranger's wrist!
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